New Year's Eve

It was a most beautiful sunset tonight. Majestic, in fact. We watched it all and then got dressed and went to town and way back in the hood to the restaurant we went to a few nights ago- El Moro.
I wish I could truly describe this place. It is the opposite of fancy and the kitchen takes up a quarter of the room and is open to view. The decor could be described as...orange.
Mostly.

But it is one of those places.
Not only is the food as delicious as any I've ever eaten in my life but the owner/host is the most special man. He greets everyone as if they were long-lost loved ones. And he dashes from the tables to kitchen to tables again, making sure everything is todo bien.
And everything always is.
All good.
And when it's time to leave you get that shot of Xtabentun but you also get hugs and blessings and thanks. Tonight the hugs and blessings were quadrupled for the New Year. I wish I knew everything he blessed us with. Love, prosperity, happiness. Those for sure. And after he gave us our initial hugs and blessings, he came back in for more.
It's almost like he's an angel here on earth and I do not say that lightly.

We've been talking about the fact that we aren't going to get our black-eyed peas for New Years this year and I've been saying I'm fine with that. We ate them last New Years and look how that turned out. Oh, don't get me wrong- we've had some incredibly beautiful things happen this year, the birth of our Maggie June being the first and foremost but there have been some pretty difficult things too on the personal, family, and global level as well.
So. Missing those black-eyed peas doesn't really scare me too much.
And as we were driving back to the hotel, we were discussing all of the blessings we'd just been given at El  Moro and Glen said, "I'd take those blessings over black-eyed peas any day."

Amen.

So here we are, safely back at the Blue Angel where there's a dinner party on the grass beside the pool under the palm trees and a small band playing quite loudly about twenty yards from our room and I'm wondering if they're going to play until the wee hours and although they are quite fine, I have to say I hope not.
We are old.
I suggested to my husband that we could go skinny dipping in the pool and he said that yes, that would probably clear them out. But I doubt we'll do that.
As I said- we are old.
And it does not seem like a wild party although who knows? It's barely ten o'clock and the drinking has probably hardly begun.

Well. It will be what it will be. And it's pretty enjoyable at this very second.

I wish all of us the blessings which were given to me tonight, even though I am not quite sure what they are. But I put my hands in front of my heart, palms pressed together, and I send them your way.

Mostly though, peace, love, and light.
As always.
Ms. Moon

Just Another Day

I woke up with the saddies this morning, as my friend Sue used to say, which seems impossible here in paradise but it happens and then I went outside to see a gloomy day, raining a little, a gentle spit here and there and I think the day will clear as island weather does. It comes and it goes with the wind and the hour.

We spoke to a Scottish woman at breakfast and she is scared for the world because of our election and all of the things happening in her part of the world as well and I teared up from frustration and fear and embarrassment and all of the things we've been feeling since the election.

The waves are coming in high this morning, splashing and frothing the walkways but still the divers will go out.

And the cruise ships will come in. 

I think we are going to town today so that Mr. Moon can watch a game in a sports bar and I am probably going to walk around and maybe shop a little. I remember when I used to love to shop in Cozumel but now I feel so shy about it and awkward and it's hard for me. Perhaps I used to want things more than I do now. But I'd love to get a few things for my grands, at least. 

We shall see. 

New Year's Eve day. I asked Sergio this morning what he is doing to celebrate and he said he will be with his family. They will have a pinata. 

"Of Donald Trump?" I asked. 

"No," he said, then, "Maybe."

I made a disparaging remark about DT and he said, "I hope he does well. If he does well, we all do well."

"You're right, you're right, you're right," I said. I felt chastened and schooled. 

And humbled. 

Still, I am not hopeful, nor was the Scottish woman but I will keep Sergio's words in my heart. 

Peace be upon us all, wherever we may be. 

Love...Ms. Moon

El Cielo

The day started like this. That's Sergio and Mr. Moon. When we walked into the restaurant for our breakfast this morning, Sergio brought out another walking stick- this one made by his brother just for my husband.

Really.

I mean.

Really.

We thanked him most profusely and ate our breakfast and then we went to Mega for supplies and brought them back and got ready to go on our excursion to El Cielo which is a place off the shore at the south end of the island which you can only get to by boat. Our hotel does a trip out there every week and we went last time we were here and I would not have missed it for the world. The water was rough and it was cloudy but a few intrepid folks got onboard and we stopped at a reef for some snorkeling and then proceeded to El Cielo.

Which means...heaven.

And it was. As soon as we anchored, our captain Chango turned into the guacamole chef.

And he and Tony, the other person in charge, served us the freshest guacamole on the island with chips and quesadillas and little sandwiches and any and all liquor you might want. 

Tequila was involved. 

Tequila was very much involved. 

And it was heaven. The sun came out and we floated about in the water and rays swam by and I could have stayed forever.

Which of course, is impossible. 

And so we finally had to come back in. 

A rainbow followed us. 

We got back just in time to watch the sunset. 

Which was glorious. And as I sat on the dock, watching it, a young man popped up right beside me in the water holding a sand dollar which he offered to sell me. 

I declined, but thanked him.

Really. 

And then the tiniest new moon appeared in the sky, a pequeno newborn fingernail, crisp and sharp against the darkening sky. Mr. Moon took this picture of me studying it. 

We had our supper here at the hotel and now Mr. Moon is watching the Orange Bowl on the TV and I'm about go get into bed myself and read. 

And on top of all of this goodness today, we got to talk to Owen and Gibson and Lily on the phone. Owen was eager to tell us how much fun he's been having while they've been staying at our house and that he and Gibson are having a sleepover at their friend Gabe's house tonight and Gibson told me that he sleeps with his blanket every night and Lily told us she loved us and that all is well. 

Hey y'all. Heaven is real. 

I've been there today. 

Got the pictures to prove it. 

Love...Ms. Moon

Because

This happens every night. 

Because you can spend an entire day right at your hotel and put on a mask and fins and a snorkel and dip into the water and see a world which is hidden from view but exactly right there, all the time including a ray five feet across, fly/swimming over the sand and tiny fish the size of my littlest toe, black with blue electric lights. 

Because you can be alone with your love and you can sleep when you want and you can read when you want and the dock is always there to stand on or sit on and you can watch the clear, clear water as it moves and sighs and because the Maya are sailors and sea people and there are always boats coming and going, crossing and coming in and going out. Because you can talk to the girl at the desk and both of you tear up and touch your hearts when you are looking at the water together and speaking of Cozumel. 

Because you can go get your supper and have this served to you before your dinner even gets there and it is hot and hotter and hottest and delicious and the burn is so sweet. 

And because when the waiter brings you an iron platter of fajitas and it is audibly sizzling and visibly steaming, smoke rising up from the wine he just poured over the meat and peppers and onions and he sets it before you he does not feel the need to say, "Watch out! This is really hot!"

Because they are rocking out at the Catholic church these days and this little nino was dancing and looked over his shoulder to see if anyone was looking. 

And because right downtown in the middle of everything, there are places where people live, tucked in between stores and restaurants, decorated all to heaven for Christmas and there are pictures of the family on the wall and the senor is watching TV in the corner as the world walks by and it is all open to God and to everyone. 

And because I do not know, it all just is. The water, the people, the sky, the boats, the fishes, the food, the children, the dogs, the birds, the jungle, the butterflies, the flowers, the smiles, the wind which right now is fluttering the palm fronds in an almost frantic dance as the waves bash and crash the dock. Because of the man who comes by every day selling churros, still warm from his kitchen, filled with chocolate and with vanilla. 

Because even the smell of Fabuloso makes me happy. 

All of this. And all of the rest of it too. 

I am in love. 

Blue Angel News Report, Thursday Morning Edition

I noticed when we came in last night that a table was being taken down which had been set by the water and this morning I noticed an abundance of rose petals scattered about there.
I am thinking there was a very special supper for someone last night.
A proposal? An anniversary?
Whatever it was, I am sure that it was romantic and lovely.

In animal news, an employee showed up this morning with a tiny baby potbellied pig. Everyone gathered about to see it, to pet it and then it was tied to a chair for a few moments until it could be taken home, I presume.

There was a worry that Bagheera might attack the small creature, thinking it to be a rat so I offered to let her stay in our room until Piggie was retrieved and so Ms. B. had a nice snack of leftover bacon from yesterday's breakfast to help her with her disappointment at not being able to attack the pig which is rather fitting, I think. 

The pig is now gone and Baggie is resting and watching as she does. 

What she is mostly watching is the project that Mr. Moon and the woodworker for the hotel have going on. 

Yesterday my husband found a nice stick in the jungle at the ruins to use as a walking stick and this morning he asked if he could be loaned a machete to make it the right size and so forth. 

Not only was he given a sharpened machete to use

but Ishmael also produced power tools to make the job easier. 

Now I think that sandpaper is being sought after to finish the work properly.

In dream news, both my husband and I had horrible dreams last night. We are blaming the Xtabentum but who knows what Mayan curse we picked up inadvertently by stepping in the wrong place at Ixchel's shrine yesterday? If we offended, I hope we are forgiven. 

I swear. Our hearts are pure.

Relatively.

My ankles and feet are still a bit swollen and sore from yesterday's bug bites. I assume this is because I was introduced to a toxin of which I have no experience. I shall survive.

I think we are going to snorkel right here at the hotel today. Beyond that, we have no real plans. My huevos motulenos and plantains which I had for breakfast will last me the rest of the day and into supper time with any luck. I have a book I am hoping to finish reading today. 

Perhaps a nap?

And so it goes here at the Blue Angel Resort on Cozumel, Mexico on one of the last days of a year which is passing swiftly by. 

Love...Ms. Moon

Blog World Made Flesh And Real

Today was the day that Steve Reed met us in Cozumel. He and his husband Dave docked this morning on a cruise ship and Steve walked to our hotel and joined us for breakfast. Before that, though, he began to take pictures so I took a picture of him taking pictures with Bagheera looking on. 

It was a very good day. 

We drove downtown and stopped for Steve to take a picture of the Ixchel fountain. So I took a picture too.

The Crone goddess of the Maya whose temples were in Cozumel. And then, we drove across the island to see the ruins of the temples. Which are in the jungle.

Banyan tree.

Uh...A building?

More ruins and if you look closely you can see an iguana, sunning himself. 

Once while Mr. Moon and I were at this park he broke his toe and once we saw an alien and today I got stung on both ankles by some unidentified insect and my ankles and feet are still swollen but not itchy so, whatever.

Steve took lots of pictures of butterflies and birds and we saw a coatimundi and lots of other tourists. Mr. Moon found a long branch and used it for a staff and a jolly and merry Indian man told him that he reminded him of Moses which was awesome. 

We drove to the other side of the island, the wild side, and were going to have lunch there but there were so many people (many cruise ships on the island today) that we drove back around to town and had our lunch at Casa Denis.

Lime soup, chips, salsa, guacamole, Dos Equis. Delicious. Two handsome fellas. 

We drove Steve back to the ship pier and came home and I took a tiny nap and we got up and I took this panoramic picture of the sunset. 

We drove to town, deep in the 'hood to find a restaurant we like. El Moro. Such sweet people. Such good food. 

Shrimp Veracruz. I love the decor of El Moro. It has a little bit of everything from Chac Mool 

standing watch over the front of the restaurant to romantic paintings on velvet. Scenes of the Maya.

You just can't beat a good velvet painting. I'm sorry. 

We had our dinners and then some coconut ice cream with Kahlua and then they bring you a shot of Xtabentun which is a delicious honey liqueur. We ended up having a conversation with another American who was almost as tall as Mr. Moon and whose name was improbably but truly Glenn. But with two "n's". 

And now we are back at the hotel and tomorrow we shall have been here a week and I can't fucking believe that. No way. No how. It's been a breath, a nap, a sunset, a meal, another breath, a night's sleep. 

The Blue Angel is quiet and it's time for me to wash my face and brush my teeth and get into bed and read for awhile, cuddled up to my husband. 

I am glad we got to share a little of Cozumel with Steve. I'm sure he got some beautiful pictures and I can't wait to see them. I feel as transcendent and impermanent as one of the butterflies he captured with his lens in the jungle. 

Good night, y'all. 

Good night. 

Love...Ms. Moon

Gently Falling

We have seen few iguanas this trip. We joke that they have all headed south. Which would be to the south of the island but today we saw this guy as we drove up the road to the north.
He looks so pissed off. Which is how iguanas look.
Senor Iguana- how do you feel? 
Pissed off!

We did this and we did that today. We drove up that road until a pothole the size of a small nation filled with water presented itself to us and we turned around. We went to the golf course/country club which is an Audubon Sanctuary where I sat and watched more emerald shining humming birds sip from hibiscus and then we drove to back to town and found a place we have eaten before, although they have changed locations. They used to be a walk-up counter and now they have a little restaurant and we had a fish sandwich and a shrimp sandwich and two soft drinks (mango and mandarin orange) for less than five dollars and that included a tray with a lime slaw, a smokey chipotle sauce, a habanero mayonnaise sauce and a tomato sauce and then we walked through the mercado, although they were shuttin' 'er up for the day.

Oh! And we stopped at the marina

and walked around and looked at the boats and wondered ONCE AGAIN about that castle and we also stopped at Chadraui for water and coffee and limes and avocados. 

We came home and were going to snorkel right here at the hotel but the rain suddenly came down and so instead we took a nap and then got up and had coffee and played cards and watched another sunset.

Pobrecito Mr. Moon. I make him go get ice in the restaurant and make us rum drinks for sunset every night. He told me that when he went in to make the drinks tonight, he heard a rustling in the room and went out to investigate where he found Bagheera settling into the little box which our tiny coffee pot came in. She ducked into it and the lid came up over her head and then she popped her head back out again and then went back inside. She, for some reason, thinks that our room is the SOURCE OF ALL CHEESE and I have no idea why she thinks that except for the fact that when we have our little happy hour snack of cheese and avocado we give her a nibble of the cheese. Just a tiny nibble! I promise! But he escorted her out and we walked a little ways down the sea walk to a pizza restaurant for our supper.

Right on the water and we watched the cars and trucks unload off the huge Trans Caribe vessel while we waited for our delicious pizza and sipped Negra Modela's as the waves came in beside us and as we walked home, I said to my husband, "I love you, do you love me?" and he said, "I love you. Do you love me?"

And I tapped my forehead, my heart, my nether-regions, as Keith Richards does when he gives his thank-you bows and I said, "In all ways," and this is why I come to Cozumel with my husband. 

We had almost an entire pizza in a box to bring home as leftovers and when we came into the lobby of the hotel, we asked the fellows at the desk if they wanted a piece and they did, and we have put the rest away in our little refrigerator with our yogurt drinks and our beer and our pineapple juice and there is a guy playing guitar and singing in Spanish at the restaurant and the waves are shush-shush-shushing and once again, I have fallen into the spell of this place with all of me, just as I remember how I love my husband, with all of me. 

Buenos Noches, mis amores...Ms. Moon

View From Breakfast Table

Mr. Moon had oatmeal for breakfast.
I had huevos divorciadios. Two eggs, over medium, on tortillas with beans and red sauce and green sauce.
I believe I won.

There is a beautiful girl (well, there are several beautiful girls) who works here. She is pure light, inside and out. She gives the best hugs. This morning I told her, "It's another beautiful day."
She agreed.
"I feel so lucky to be here," I said, and tears began to well up in my eyes.
"Esta Paraiso," she said.
"It is. Paradise."
We nodded.
It's just the truth.

Love...Ms. Moon

Just One Picture Which Says Enough

How I love this man.

Even In Paradise

Do we ever get over the feeling that everyone else in the world is cooler than we are, prettier, more capable and more at ease in their bodies, their surroundings, their lives?

I am struggling with this right now. Really hard.

The place we're staying is hardly the epicenter for the glorious and glamorous and yet, I still feel somehow less than everyone else. We sat next to some folks at breakfast just a few moments ago and he was a Jimmy Buffet looking guy with tattoos and an earring, she an exotic beauty whom I can imagine negotiating the streets of New York City or the helm of a sailboat. She was wearing shorts and a bikini top- not exactly a spring chicken- but her body was smooth and perfect and tan (what? me notice things like this?) and I just feel like a shlump, an old woman with an old woman body and an old woman face and even though there are women here who are older and even more grandmotherly in appearance than I, at least they dive, which I do not do.

I had a funny and telling dream the other night. This was before we saw the humming bird and in the dream, someone was stacking up things to sell at a thrift store and she thought they were some sort of very delicate china but I told her they were porcelain hummingbird feeders. Then I proceeded to tell her that I would be a good friend because I am very smart and say the word "fuck" all the time.
This makes little sense but in a way it may- do I now perceive myself as someone whose worth rests solely in my intellect and my love of cursing?

And just now the humming bird came back for another morning go at the flowers and I did smile, watching its emerald wings never ceasing, it's quick darting and sipping.

Speaking of sipping, the seagulls fly to the pool every morning for a quick drink of pool water. They are well behaved and line up and take their drinks and fly away.

Anyway, it is a beautiful morning and I am not sure what we're doing today but I think we shall go snorkeling. Maybe down at Playa Corona. I have a pimple on my chin which seems ridiculous. I have ugly, ugly age spots which make my skin look like as if I've been bred with a leopard although got none of the beauty or grace. And I need to get out of my head and into the day and into the water where I am alien by my very presence and yet, allowed and I doubt the fishes will judge me because I am merely another human which is a huge club to belong to and one which I doubt they give much thought to except to be annoyed by.
As they so rightly should be.

Love...Ms. Moon

We Took A Walk

Ah. I am feeling particularly uninspired tonight. I hardly took any good pictures today. That one is from this morning when it was still raining.
It did not rain for long and we walked into town and back which is probably, maybe, about four miles and I got a blister on the top of my foot from my flip-flops and so walked most of the way home barefoot and for a little while I thought maybe I'd blistered the bottoms of my feet too but they're fine.
We got in the pool when we got back (swimming on Christmas day!) and had a rest and got up and watched the sunset. There were clouds obscuring the event itself but there was color and I laid back and watched the scudding clouds as they passed, shape-shifting and morphing from one thing into another.

Every night a different event and each one with its own charms and beauty.

We went into town for our supper and it was fine although my favorite part was the little fried tortilla with beans in it that came with my chili relleno. 

I do love beans. 

We walked around downtown for a little while after we ate. The zocalo, which has been redone since we were here last, has a huge water feature with lights and sound. The children especially seem enchanted by it. 

It is QUITE dramatic! 

At least they have kept the old clock tower, even if it is sort of over-lit if you ask me. 

Still, it is an anchor to the past. 

And now we are home in our room. 

I will take a shower and read in the coolness and then settle down and sleep. My dreams have been sweeter here, my mornings much less fraught. 

A good Christmas Day. Boppy gave Owen and Gibson a basketball goal and ball for Christmas and Jason and Vergil and Owen set it up and Lily sent a video of Owen throwing his first ball at the goal which he made, looking as if he's been doing it his whole life. 

Beginner's luck or genetic inclination? 

Who knows? 

Not me. 

I hope all is well with you. 

Kisses from Mexico.

Love...Ms. Moon

Christmas Morning

It is Christmas morning in Cozumel and a bit rainy and overcast but paradise nonetheless.
And it is truly the third day of waking up here and that day has forever and always been the most difficult for me. And then I settle in for real and all is well but I know me and how I am.
And then of course, thinking of my babies gathering to open presents but then thinking of the dreaded melancholy which settles over me on Christmas day and it feels fine to be here, even with the rain.

It is slow here at the Blue Angel this morning. Eva, the owner, wanted her staff to be able to have some time off and the restaurant is not open but there are pastries and fruit and coffee and the soft sound of voices and the shush of the waves. Mr. Moon just took pictures of a hummingbird dipping and sipping right beside him.

I tried to write a post last night when we came in from our Christmas Eve revels but (probably fortunately) the internet was down. Yesterday was just a beautiful day. We drove around the island, stopping in at Playa Corona where we know the owner and his wife. She was there but he's on the mainland, visiting his father. She said they were just thinking of us because their beloved old dog just died and we were there the day they got him. I still have pictures of that day. Their little girls were in their school uniforms and they were so happy to have that puppy. 

Anyway, it was good to see Elsa and we hugged and hugged and we'll see her and hopefully Rogillio and the children in the days coming up. 

We drove down to El Cedral which is, I think, one of the oldest place of inhabitance on the island. This may not be true but it's a pretty place, little houses in the jungle. 

They hold a festival there every year and as with everything, we have seen it grow up. It is now a tour bus destination and there are shops and a new church where once there was just a little girl with an iguana who would let you take her picture for a few pesos. 

We drove on around the south of the island to the other side, the wild side, where there is still no electricity and the water is rough and beautiful and the colors cannot be described. I tried to take pictures. They do no justice at all.

We stopped at the beach club Chen Rio

where we had what was one of the best meals of my life. It satisfied all the requirements of a perfect meal- fresh, local, in season, simple. 

Ceviche de Cameron and

fried snapper. 

Could it possibly get better than that? We ate slowly and with our eyes closed and then we took a little dip in the protected cove beside the club. We read, we ate more, we sighed, we finally paid up and got in our little car and drove back to the hotel where we napped until sunset (relaxation is exhausting) and then we decided we'd go to town just to see what was happening and oh my god. 

There's an ex-pat bar where people gather and they had tables outside all over the sidewalks and a band set up and we got a table and ordered the SMALL margaritas and the drinks got there just as the band (all Mexicans) began to crank out Cocaine, the old Eric Clapton song, and then swung right into the Stones Miss You, and it just went on from there.

I have video but hell- half those people could be in the Witness Protection Program or on the lam at the very least. 

As I texted Hank though, BEST CHRISTMAS EVE EVER!

We didn't stay too long but while we were there it was excellent people-watching. The older lady in the bright orange jacket who began dancing and her husband, who looked a bit like Larry David, was so embarrassed that he had to walk away. He did come back. The young couple who obviously KNEW how to dance. The servers who kept everyone hydrated and fed. We ate some nachos and finished our deadly margaritas and Mr. Moon stopped to buy some of the toy light-up helicopters that the children love and the son of the vender who was waiting patiently with his papa gave me two kisses, unasked, which seemed like the best Christmas present ever. I had leaned over to ask his name (Pablo) and he softly kissed my cheek. He was four years old and reminded me of my sweet Gibson and when I bent over to tell him that my name was Abuela Maria, he kissed me again, just as sweetly. 

I asked his papa if I could take his picture and he said I could and so I did. 

And that was our Christmas Eve and now it is Christmas morning and we've had our pastries and fruit and coffee and shared a piece of cheese with Bagheera who is the sweetest little kitty and have talked to the children and grandchildren and I feel much cheered. We may go take a rainy walk. Why not?

A slow, delicious Christmas Day on the island of Cozumel off the Yucatan Peninsula with my husband. Who knows what adventures await us? 

Yours in peace and in love and in light...Abuela Maria Luna