Glen took this picture on Wednesday evening when we were walking back to our hotel after our supper. Now if this isn't the most charming little southern town you've ever seen, I don't know what could be.
Abbeville, South Carolina and it is famous for being "Both the birthplace and deathbed of the confederacy."
Well. What can you say to that?
The place we stayed was pretty historic but I have to say there was just something off there. I don't even want to go into it. Let's just move on.
I must mention, however, a very, very old lady whom we met Thursday morning. She was as bright eyed as a little bird and had very dyed red hair. She wanted to chat and I would have given a hundred dollars to record her voice. She had an accent unlike any I've ever heard and whether or not it is a typical S.C. accent, I do not know. On top of that, her voice was as high and sweet as a young girl's.
I asked her if she lived there. I knew there were a few people who did make the place their residence. She said no, she was only staying there for a week until she could find a place to live because her house had been condee-emed.
Things had just gotten away from her and it was so expensive to fix up a place, you know, and she didn't know what she was going to do.
I felt so bad for her. She didn't seem overly upset but more bewildered. I wondered- had she no children? No one to help her?
I will not soon forget her.
We drove almost all backroads and it was about the least stressful trip I've ever made. We made it here on Thursday around 2:30, met up with Jessie, did our grocery shopping, and then Glen and I got to the house we'd rented, unloaded the car, and I started in on a pot of chicken and dumplings.
Of course.
They were good, by the way. Seriously good.
And not hard as rocks.
We have stayed here before, for sure, and it is adequate and more so.
So Jessie had bought tickets for all of us to go tour the Biltmore mansion and gardens today which I was a little worried about because I knew it was going to be a long day with lots of walking and besides that, we had to GET UP EARLY but I also knew that it was going to be amazing.
And it was.
Mostly pictures here, people.
It was heaven and it was not easy.
And then we moved on and walked up to the mansion although I really think it should be called a castle. Good Lord. We walked through a rose garden and more flowers and more exotic trees and there were fountains and statuary and koi ponds and we got coffee and other beverages and we took the boys to a toy store where the shops are and I got them both a grandma pick-out-what-you-want present. August got a kit to make models of some sort and Levon wanted a little stuffy hedgehog whose name is now MoMo and he loves his new friend. August, as we speak, is working on his models.
And then on to the house tour and I now feel like we've had been on some sort of voyage to the past.
I'm not going to go into any of the history of the Biltmore's or any of that. Look it up. But Jesus God Almighty, they had a lot of money. The Biltmores, that is.
This is just one piece of art in the house. There are Rembrandts and Matisse's and John Singer Sargents and Rembrandt and I have no idea what else but this lady, "Rosita, the Lady in Red" by Spanish artist Ignacio Zuloaga, especially charmed me.
A picture from the library. The circular staircase comes down from the floor where the guest rooms are so that they could take them to go find a book to read, should the need arise.
The music room. Boud- the tapestries are from the early 16th century.
The entrance to the mansion (or one of them at least).
Look up. It's worth it.
The breakfast room.
We walked down hallways as long as football fields, we climbed circular staircases up and up and up and we climbed ones that, although not circular, also took us into the far realms of the house. We went down staircases that took us to the kitchens, the pantries, the laundry rooms, the servants' rooms. After awhile I just stopped taking pictures. It was all too much.
I cannot imagine what sort of person would want to build such a place. The audio guided tour we were all able to listen to made it seem that Biltmore had nothing more in mind than the good of Asheville and the glory of its stones and and rocks and the views and good, healthy air, and a place where the very most interesting and educated people in the world would want to come together to glory in the scenery, to enjoy the hospitality, to meet and learn from each other.
Okay. Maybe. Whatever, it's certainly a hell of an impressive place and I'm so glad we got to see it.
Especially the gardens.
We're back at the house having Friday night martinis in the quiet of this beautiful place.
The creek gurgles, the air is still tonight. It's been a very good day.
When I woke up at 7:15 this morning and knew I had to get up, part of me thought, "Oh god. I do not want to do this."
I asked August on our way home today what his favorite part of the day had been. He said, "You guys."
I clarified this and he meant his grandfather and me.
I can hardly bear the sweetness of it.
Love...Ms. Moon
















“You guys.” How sweet, and what a statement. Beautiful photos. I get what you’re saying about getting up but also knowing it’ll be amazing. I love that Mr. Moon is teaching the grandkids poker! ♦️ -Nicol
ReplyDeleteThe WOW factor is overwhelming! What glorious gardens.
ReplyDeleteAugust says the best things. The tapestry is amazing, a mixture of Christian and pagan iconography. Hedging their bets. I expect it came from a European castle.
ReplyDeleteIt is a very impressive mansion and I am wondering just how many Biltmores actually lived in all that space. and who mopped all those floors? The hothouses and all those beautiful plants are amazing!
ReplyDeleteThe Biltmore has been on our "list" for years but somehow we have never made it happen. Seems we always gravitate to the beach instead. It's just what we know and love but sometimes you do need to step out of your comfort zone and see/try new things...I'll work on this. I need a Jessie in my life to help plan and make it happen. Bless her.
ReplyDeleteAND art by John Singer Sargent...be still my heart!! It is a dream and hope of mine to stand before a painting of his and take in his brillance with my own eyes. Such a remarkable painter, my absolute favorite! More incentive to go there now. "Rosita" by Zuloaga is quite stunning, would love to see it also.
Awww, sweet August...his words touched my heart as I know it did yours as well. Looks like it won't be too long before you have another grandchild that is towering over you...he looks like he has grown at least 4 inches since they left.
I hope you enjoy the rest of your trip making special memories with your loved ones.
Angie D
Oh my goodness that place is impressive. I know I would love the gardens but that internal courtyard/entrance is just the best! Wow!
ReplyDeleteWhat a beautiful house to visit. So many lovely photos....thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteYou made me more happy with more pics of your beautiful family. August will be taller than you before the summer is over! I’ve always wanted to see Biltmore estate although I know the obscene display of wealth will piss me off.
ReplyDeleteThe Biltmore Mansion is fantastic. I never knew of its existence but it looks as though it belongs in rural France - a loud statement of wealth and privilege. I guess your rental house is slightly more modest.
ReplyDeleteYour last paragraph brought tears to my eyes. I have been to Biltmore, about five years ago, and I loved it. I didn't think I would, but I really did enjoy the tour and the gardens. Your family photos put a smile of my face this morning. Thanks for that!
ReplyDeleteSo glad you got up early for yesterday's adventures at Biltmore. Your pics are wonderful. The presents for the boys will be something to help them remember the day, since opulence is probably just one more thing to them. Of course their grandparents are special in each visit with you...while you all are away from home even more so! See ya later, gator!
ReplyDeleteFrom a poor old homeless lady with red hair to the over-the-top wealth display of the Biltmore Mansion! The extremes of America. And August has such a big heart!
ReplyDelete